An add-a-circuit fuse tap is useful for a small, compatible automotive accessory when the vehicle manufacturer permits the connection and the chosen fuse-box position has adequate capacity. Buy the exact blade style your vehicle uses. The Littelfuse FHM200BP kit is a documented MINI option; the FHM20200ZPA is the corresponding MICRO2 option. They are different fittings, not interchangeable sizes.
Start with fit, permitted current and the accessory’s power requirements. A fuse tap does not increase the capacity of the factory wiring, convert vehicle voltage to USB voltage or protect a parked car’s battery from discharge. This guide compares published specifications and installation requirements; we have not load-tested these products.
Match the fuse family before choosing a kit
| Fuse-box style | Documented Littelfuse kit | What to confirm |
|---|---|---|
| MINI | FHM200BP; material number 0FHM0200ZP | Standard-height MINI blades and room for the installed tap |
| MICRO2 | FHM20200ZPA | Two-blade MICRO2 shape and spacing |
| Low Profile MINI | FHLM0200ZPA | Low-profile geometry; ordinary MINI is not an assumed substitute |
| ATO standard blade | FHA200BP; material number 0FHA0200ZP | Standard ATO slot, rather than MINI or MICRO2 |
These part-number distinctions come from the Littelfuse aftermarket catalog. MICRO3 and larger cartridge-style fuses require their own solutions. A photograph of a small blade fuse, or the word “mini” used casually in a listing, is not enough to establish compatibility.
Littelfuse FHM200BP for a MINI fuse slot
The FHM200BP is a one-kit MINI Add-A-Circuit product. Littelfuse maps that retail catalog number to 0FHM0200ZP. The kit includes a holder and MINI fuses rated 3, 5, 7.5 and 10 amps; choose the accessory fuse using the accessory and wiring instructions, not simply the largest included value.
The current manufacturer datasheet lists the MINI holder at 32V DC and 10A maximum. Its family specification also lists 7.5A continuous. Treat those as limits to check against the intended installation, not an allowance to draw an extra 10A continuously from any vehicle fuse slot.
This is a sensible option when you already know you need MINI and want a traceable part with published documentation. It will not solve a low-profile fuse-box clearance problem merely because the blades look similar.
Littelfuse FHM200BP MINI Add-A-Circuit Kit
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Littelfuse FHM20200ZPA for a MICRO2 fuse slot
The FHM20200ZPA is the MICRO2 kit, also supplied with 3, 5, 7.5 and 10A fuses in its own fuse style. The manufacturer identifies this exact kit as a 32V DC, 10A-maximum product in the same Add-A-Circuit family.
Choose it only after confirming MICRO2 in the vehicle documentation and at the actual fuse box. MICRO2 and MICRO3 names are easy to confuse, and a two-blade adapter is not a substitute for the three-blade design.
Check the complete fitted height and the direction in which the lead exits. The adapter must seat properly without interfering with an adjacent fuse or preventing the cover from closing. If the correct adapter cannot fit, use another manufacturer-approved connection method rather than trimming the housing or bending the blades.
What an add-a-circuit actually does
A conventional two-fuse adapter adds a separately fused branch at an existing fuse position. One fuse remains responsible for the original circuit, while another protects the new accessory branch. The wire lead is the new branch’s positive feed; it is not a complete accessory power system.
That distinction matters for a dash cam. If the camera needs regulated 5V USB power, use its compatible hardwire power converter. A bare fuse tap delivers the vehicle’s supply voltage. It must not be wired directly to a device that requires a lower voltage.
As a concrete example, the Nextbase Series 2 hardwire kit combines a 12–24V input arrangement with a 5V Mini USB output and an inbuilt minimum-voltage limiter. Those functions belong to that compatible hardwire kit, not to an ordinary add-a-circuit holder. Check your camera model rather than assuming all USB connectors or hardwire kits work alike.
Choose a permitted circuit and the right power behavior
Read the vehicle’s owner and service information before removing fuses. Identify the exact circuit and confirm that adding an accessory is permitted. Avoid borrowing power from safety-critical circuits such as airbags, braking or steering systems. Engine-control and other sensitive electronics are poor places to experiment.
An empty cavity is not automatically a usable accessory connection. It may be unpowered, lack a required terminal or be reserved for equipment that is not fitted. Its available current cannot be established by looking at the plastic opening.
For a device that should turn off with the vehicle, identify the required switched supply. Parking-mode camera kits may require both a constant supply and a separate ignition-sense connection. Verify their behavior with the vehicle’s retained-accessory-power and sleep states in mind; key-off does not always mean immediate power-off.
The BlackVue hardwire instructions distinguish ACC, BATT and ground, require matching the fuse shape and pin spacing, and call for checking power with a multimeter or appropriate tester. Wire colors are kit-specific, so follow the labels and manual for the actual device.
Respect the wiring and fuse-holder limits
Keep the original circuit’s specified fuse value. Replacing it with a larger fuse to accommodate an accessory can leave wiring inadequately protected. Ford’s owner guidance, for example, warns that a higher-amperage replacement can damage wiring and start a fire. Your own vehicle manual supplies the relevant fuse values and procedures.
The accessory fuse must suit its load and the wiring it protects. Also account for the holder, crimp, shared supply connection and fuse-box terminal limits. Two individually acceptable fuses do not prove the common input path has enough capacity for both loads.
If documentation does not clearly establish the allowable original-circuit load and added load, ask the holder manufacturer or an automotive electrician before connecting it. Do not treat a product’s 10A maximum as “10A for each branch” without explicit confirmation.
High-current lights, compressors, heaters, amplifiers and fast-charging accessory battery packs can require a dedicated fused supply and control arrangement. Buying a heavier-looking fuse tap or installing a larger blade fuse does not create that supply. Follow the equipment maker’s complete wiring requirements.
Orientation and physical installation matter
The adapter’s input side and the fuse positions must follow its diagram. Turning a tap around can change which current path passes through the original fuse. Confirming that an accessory powers on is not enough to demonstrate correct orientation.
Have the supply side identified using the vehicle and adapter instructions. If a powered voltage check is required, it should be done with appropriate equipment by someone who understands the procedure. Never use a meter’s resistance or continuity mode on an energized circuit.
Make and inspect connections with the power isolated as directed by the vehicle manufacturer. Use the specified connector and a suitable crimping tool. Secure the lead so it cannot pull the tap sideways, chafe on a panel or become trapped under the fuse-box lid.
For cabin accessories, keep wiring clear of pedals, steering movement and airbag deployment paths. BlackVue’s installation guidance explicitly calls for those checks. If trim removal involves an airbag area or the vehicle has unfamiliar power-management electronics, professional installation is the sensible next step.
Check the installation before calling it finished
- Confirm the adapter and both fuses are fully seated, with no modified blades or loose terminals.
- Verify the original vehicle function still works normally.
- Test the accessory in every intended mode, including ignition-off behavior when relevant.
- Confirm the cover closes correctly and the lead remains protected.
- Stop using the installation if a connection discolors, smells hot, becomes loose or repeatedly blows a fuse. Diagnose the cause rather than increasing the fuse value.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a MINI tap in a Low Profile MINI slot?
Do not assume so. The body geometry and seating requirements differ. Buy the exact style specified for the position and check the assembled clearance.
Does the accessory fuse have to match the original fuse?
They protect different branches, so their values are chosen for their respective circuits. Preserve the original specified value and follow the accessory, wire and holder requirements for the new branch.
Will a fuse tap prevent battery drain?
No. It provides overcurrent protection when correctly installed. Parking operation needs an appropriate power-management solution, and its behavior must match the vehicle and accessory.
Can these taps be used on household AC wiring?
No. The products discussed here are automotive-style low-voltage DC accessories. They are not household branch-circuit adapters or tools for working on an electric vehicle’s high-voltage system.
Image note: AI-generated editorial category illustration; not a photograph of a named or tested product. Not an installation guide, pinout diagram or scale drawing.
